This is a comforting, soul-warming soup you can serve as a chowder or turn into a silky purée.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 large leeks (about 8 cups), white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, halves cut into 1/2-inch-thick half-moons
4 large celery stalks (about 2 cups), chopped, plus small, tender leaves for garnish
6 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about 9 cups), peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
7 cups water
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon jarred chicken stock base (such as Better Than Bouillon)
1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Dash of freshly grated nutmeg
Finely chopped fresh chives and crushed potato chips, for garnish
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